Granmaman
Until this day I still think Granmaman's griot is the best I ever had. She was my late grandmother(paternal). One of the best gifts she ever gave me was her recipes and techniques. Her cooking was amazing. Granmaman was what I would describe as a complicated woman. I would not come to understand just how complicated she was until she neared the end of her life. Don't get me wrong, I had a great deal of affection for her, and I took her the way she was, but it wasn’t the Hallmark card kind of love I had known from my other grandma, not at all. Granmaman’s love was a bit tougher to absorb. It was hard to see, and hard to recognize, but underneath her rigidity it was there. As a matter of fact , the best way for her to show it to you, was not in words, but it was in the food she offered you. She had a love of gardening vegetables. Her knowledge about harvesting and cultivation was impressive. She was into organic food before it was as hip and posh as it is today.
The thing about her cooking that I remember the most is that her food had such powerful flavor. I used to think it was magic. Whenever I would take her to the grocery she had a meticulous process of inspecting every piece of produce and meat and explain to me what to look for to make sure it was the best. Unfortunately, I found it to be exhaustive at the time and didn’t pay attention.
One year, I hosted Easter dinner in my home. I decided to bring Granmaman over for the weekend so she could help me prepare a leg of lamb, something I had never done before because of my sheer fear of failure. I knew at the outset that spending the weekend with her could be rough. She could be highly critical and very demanding. Her delivery was tough, and she could be harsh. With a description like that one could think she was mean spirited, but she wasn’t, she was just really hard to please and figure out. As a child I dealt with it in silence, but as an adult, I found my voice and would push back politely, she was still my grandmother, the same way I watched my mom do. Needless to say as much as I suffered that weekend ,the lamb was a hit! Until this day, about ten years later, people still praise me for that lamb. Oddly enough I have never made it again.
The first dish Granmaman ever taught me to make was Griot. I remember her teaching me in her tiny kitchen like it was yesterday. I towered over her four foot eleven stature, but she towered over me with her immense knowledge and brash demeanor. She insisted that her method be followed exactly as she said. I realize now, she wasn’t trying to make me feel little or incompetent with her brashness, she wanted me to get it right. I was the first grandchild, first grandaughter, it was the only gift a farmers daughter could give me.
Her ingredients were simple and fresh always the best quality. Her methodology was tedious and precise at times. She is the first person who taught me about cooking low and slow.( low heat for a longer time) It worked well for her, because I never witnessed any episodes of smoke or burned food in her home. The end result was worth it though. Her griot tasted the best, and was the worst kept secret in our hometown of Spring Valley,NY. There are a lot of things I miss about Granmaman. I miss her sense of humor and her wealth of knowledge in a Haitian kitchen. What I miss most is the opportunity to ask her how her early life shaped her into the woman I got to know. I would have asked what her dreams were. I would have asked her what the hell she put in her citronade, the French word for lemonade, that made the thing so damn irresistible. Don't get me wrong, I make a mean one but nothing compared to hers. I have a feeling she had a technique to choosing her lemons, and of course I missed that lesson.
Griot is THE Haitian delicacy that is probably the first thing a non native will ask you about in small talk as a test to see if you are really Haitian. It's so good that, if you've had it you just cannot ever forget it. I have never met a Haitian in my 40 plus years who has never had it. Griot is deep fried pork morsels. Griot is goodness! Sorry, this post is not for the non-pork consumers.
Here is what I have to say about Griot. Obviously, I cannot say it one sentence, and I certainly cannot give it justice in words, It is just something one has to experience. Griot is deep fried pork chunks that have been marinated. Before you get all excited, remember I told you the ingredient list is simple and fresh. No long list of assorted spices and herbs. I hope you will try this recipe as is. I have tried adding other things and ended up over salting or over layering some flavors. Also, this recipe is not for the health conscious. I believe firmly that griot is best when the pork is deep fried. I know there are people who like the simplicity of putting it in the oven, or sautéing it in the pot. You can do whatever you want. In my school of thought nothing is wrong, I just think you miss out on its fullness when it isn’t deep fried.
Go ahead and make a Haitian grandmother proud.
Griot
2 Large lemons
1 cup of white vinegar
8 cups Boiling hot water
8-10lbs Pork shoulder cut up in medium size chunks
2 Tbsp salt
1 cup chopped parsley
10-12 smashed whole cloves of garlic
1 cup juice of sour orange
2.5L Vegetable oil
Large Stockpot
Place meat in a large bowl. Squeeze 2 large lemons over the meat and place squeezed rinds in bowl with meat. Add 1 cup of vinegar to the bowl and let sit for about ten minutes.
In a large saucepan or tea kettle bring water to a boil. Once water has come to a roiling boil turn off heat and pour water into bowl of meat. Let meat blanche for about 5 minutes.
Drain water and lemon rinds and rinse off meat with cool water. Drain meat of cool water and set aside.
In a separate bowl whisk salt,parsley,garlic and sour orange together. Once its all incorporated pour mixture over bowl of meat. Stir marinade and meat together and transfer all to a pot.
Cook meat over low- medium heat covered until pork chunks are fork tender.(about 35-45 minutes) I don't add water and allow the pork to cook in its own steam and melted fat.
Remove pork chunks from heat and allow to cool. Drain pork chunks from cooking liquid and set aside.*****
In a large stock pot or deep fryer heat oil to 350 degrees. at 350 degrees cook 3-6 chunks at a time until they are a deep colored brown and crisp enough to your liking. Once cooked remove from fryer and drain on a napkin topped plate to absorb any excess oil.
Griot is traditionally served with pikliz and fried plantains.
*****Sidenote: The reserve liquid from the pork can be used later to make a sauce that can be served with the meat or for rice if you choose to. Just continue to simmer the liquid over low heat and let it reduce to a thicker consistency adding about a teaspoon or two of tomato sauce and sliced onions.*****